Durbar Square Kathmandu: Complete Visitor Guide

Overview

Kathmandu Durbar Square — also called Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square — was the royal palace complex of the Malla kings and later the Shah dynasty. It sits at the centre of old Kathmandu and contains an extraordinary concentration of palaces, temples, and courtyards built between the 12th and 18th centuries. The square was damaged by the 2015 earthquake, and restoration is ongoing, but the bulk of the monuments are accessible and impressive. UNESCO listed the square as a World Heritage Site in 1979.

Key Monuments

The Hanuman Dhoka Palace forms the eastern boundary of the square. Its many interconnected courtyards include the Nasal Chowk, where royal coronations took place, and the Mul Chowk, a sacred space for Durga worship. The Taleju Temple, dedicated to the royal goddess, is open to Hindus only during the Dashain festival. The Kumari Ghar — the residence of the Living Goddess Kumari — is on the southern edge of the square. If you wait near its ornate window, the Kumari may briefly appear; do not point a camera directly at her as photography is restricted.

The Kasthamandap pavilion, from which the city takes its name, was destroyed in the 2015 earthquake and has since been rebuilt. The Ashok Binayak shrine nearby is one of the city's most visited Ganesh shrines. The nine-storey Basantapur Tower offers a commanding view of the square from its upper levels when open.

Entry and Tickets

Foreign visitors pay NPR 1,000 for entry to the Hanuman Dhoka museum and main palace courtyards. The ticket also covers Patan and Bhaktapur Durbar Squares for the same day. Keep your ticket — you may be asked to show it again. The wider square and temples are largely accessible without a ticket, but museum interiors require one.

Best Time to Visit

Early morning before 9 am is the quietest time, when vendors are setting up and light is best for photography. The square is particularly lively on market days when local farmers sell produce in the surrounding lanes. Festivals such as Indra Jatra (September) turn the square into an extraordinary spectacle of masked dances and chariot processions.

Exploring the Surrounding Old City

The streets radiating from Durbar Square into the old city of Kathmandu are some of the most rewarding to walk in Nepal. Head north through Indrachowk and Asan Bazaar for the city's oldest market streets. Head south towards Bhimsenthan for quieter residential lanes. The architecture throughout — pagoda temples, carved timber windows, brick courtyards — belongs to a continuous tradition stretching back seven centuries.

FAQ

How long should I spend at Kathmandu Durbar Square?
Allow two to three hours for a thorough visit including the museum. If you want to explore the surrounding old city lanes, budget half a day.

Is photography allowed?
Photography is permitted in most areas. Inside the Hanuman Dhoka museum, rules vary by room — look for signs. The Kumari's window is a photography-restricted zone.