The Living Goddess Kumari: Nepal's Sacred Child Deity

Overview

The Kumari tradition is unique to Nepal and one of the most unusual religious institutions in the world. A young girl, typically between three and five years old, is selected from the Shakya goldsmith caste of Newars through an elaborate process involving 32 physical perfection criteria, fearlessness tests in a dark room full of buffalo masks, and astrological compatibility with the reigning head of state. Once selected, the Royal Kumari of Kathmandu takes up residence in the Kumari Ghar, an ornate courtyard palace at Basantapur, and becomes the living embodiment of the goddess Taleju Bhawani. She appears at her window for brief daily appearances and is carried in a golden palanquin on ceremonial occasions. She receives tika from the President of Nepal at Indra Jatra each year, conferring legitimacy on the state. When a Kumari reaches puberty or if she bleeds from any wound, she reverts to ordinary life, and a new Kumari is selected. Getting to Kumari Ghar is straightforward; the palace sits right in the heart of the old city. Sajilo drivers know it by name and can drop you right at the entrance to Basantapur square, which offers excellent views of the Kumari Ghar facade.

FAQ

Q: Can tourists see the Kumari?

Yes. Tourists may visit the courtyard of Kumari Ghar in Kathmandu and wait for the Kumari to appear briefly at her carved window. Photography of her face is prohibited inside the courtyard. She also appears publicly at major festivals including Indra Jatra.

Q: What happens to a Kumari after she retires?

Retired Kumaris return to civilian life. They receive a government pension and can marry, attend school, and live normal lives. Historically there were superstitions that marrying a retired Kumari brought bad luck, but these beliefs have significantly faded in modern Nepal.