Makhan Tole: A Guide to Kathmandu's Most Historic Street

Overview

Makhan Tole is the name given to the section of Kathmandu's ancient central street running from the northeast corner of Kathmandu Durbar Square northward to Indrachowk square. The name derives from the Newari word for butter (Makhan), reflecting the historical trade in dairy products along this route. Makhan Tole is considered one of the most historically and architecturally intact streets in Kathmandu's old city and is lined with temples, shrines, traditional brick merchant houses, and small shops that have operated for centuries.

Historical Significance

The street along Makhan Tole follows what was the main north-south axis of medieval Kathmandu, connecting the royal palace at Durbar Square with the city's commercial centre at Asan and Indrachowk, and extending further north toward the Tibet trade routes. This was the route along which royal processions moved, along which merchants brought goods, and along which the major religious chariot processions (rathas) were pulled during festivals.

The buildings lining Makhan Tole are a mixture of traditional merchant houses (Newari three- to four-storey brick structures with carved wooden facades), temples, and public rest-houses (sattal) — the traditional shelters built by wealthy merchants as acts of religious merit, which served travellers, pilgrims, and traders.

Key Landmarks

Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple: At the Durbar Square end of Makhan Tole, this finely proportioned three-tiered pagoda temple is dedicated to Vishnu. The temple's stepped plinth and carved struts make it one of the most photographed temples in Durbar Square.

Shiva-Parvati Temple: The famous two-storey temple with the carved figures of Shiva and Parvati appearing to look out from the upper window over the square is a landmark of Kathmandu Durbar Square visible at the beginning of Makhan Tole.

Kumari Ghar: The living goddess Kumari's residence at the edge of Durbar Square is the starting point for chariot processions that move up Makhan Tole during Indra Jatra.

Numerous Shrines: Along the full length of Makhan Tole there are embedded shrine niches, standing stone images, water-spout fountains, and sattal buildings. The density of sacred sites along this short street reflects its role as a processional way.

The Street Today

Makhan Tole today is a mix of traditional craft and souvenir shops, small restaurants, and continuing residential use in the upper floors of old buildings. The 2015 earthquake caused some damage, but the street's character has largely been preserved. Tourist-oriented shops selling thangka paintings, metalwork, and Tibetan handicrafts have concentrated near the Durbar Square end.

Walking Makhan Tole

The walk from Durbar Square through Makhan Tole to Indrachowk and then to Asan is the classic old-city walking route in Kathmandu. It takes 20–30 minutes at a leisurely pace with stops, or can easily expand to 2 hours with exploration of lanes and temples. Sajilo operates rides to and from the Durbar Square area for visitors who wish to start or end their walk with transport.

Practical Information

Getting there: Makhan Tole begins at the northeast corner of Kathmandu Durbar Square (foreigners pay NPR 1,000 entry at the square gates).

Entry fee: Durbar Square ticket covers the area; Makhan Tole itself is a public street.

Best time: Early morning for quiet atmosphere; any time for shopping.