Trekking
The Khumbu Icefall: Everest's Most Dangerous Section
Every climber attempting Everest's South Col route must cross the Khumbu Icefall multiple times. This churning chaos of ice towers and crevasses claims more lives than any other section of the mountain.
The Khumbu Icefall drops roughly 600 vertical metres between Everest Base Camp and Camp I, moving up to a metre per day as the glacier flows downhill.
Overview
The Icefall Doctors — a team of experienced Sherpa climbers employed by the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee — install aluminium ladders, fixed ropes, and snow bridges each season to create a passable route through the chaos. Even so, serac collapses, crevasse falls, and avalanche runout make it statistically the deadliest section of the mountain. The April 2014 avalanche that struck the icefall killed 16 Sherpa climbing guides in a single event. Climbers typically cross during predawn hours when cold temperatures make ice structures more stable. Each rotation to higher camps requires another crossing, meaning summit teams transit the icefall six to eight times. Some expedition companies now use helicopter rotations to Camp II to reduce icefall exposure, a controversial but increasingly common practice.
FAQ
Who maintains the Khumbu Icefall route? The Icefall Doctors, a team of Sherpa professionals, fix the route each season from late February through the spring climbing window.
Can the icefall be bypassed? No practical bypass exists on the South Col route. The Northeast Ridge from Tibet avoids it entirely.
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