Indrachowk: A Guide to Kathmandu's Ancient Bazaar Crossroads

Overview

Indrachowk is a busy crossroads square in Kathmandu's old city, situated along the ancient north-south trade route between Kathmandu Durbar Square and Asan Tole. Named for Indra — the Vedic king of the gods — it is the site of the most important events of the annual Indra Jatra festival and is one of the city's major traditional market areas, particularly associated with the trade in glass beads, gold and silver jewellery, and fabric.

The Akash Bhairab Shrine

The Akash Bhairab (Sky Bhairab) shrine is the central religious focus of Indrachowk. Set into the upper floor of a building on the square's edge, the Akash Bhairab is a large and fierce mask of Bhairab (the terrifying aspect of Shiva) that is normally hidden from public view behind closed shutters. During the Indra Jatra festival (August–September), the shutters are opened and the mask is displayed publicly for eight days, drawing enormous crowds. Offerings are placed below and the mask is worshipped with music, torchlight, and large crowds of devotees.

The Akash Bhairab is considered one of the most powerful Bhairab manifestations in the Kathmandu Valley and the display of his face during Indra Jatra is a major religious event.

Indra Jatra Festival

Indrachowk is one of the principal venues of Indra Jatra, the eight-day festival celebrated in Kathmandu in August or September (dates follow the lunar calendar). The festival commemorates Indra's visit to earth to gather flowers for his mother and his subsequent capture by Kathmandu citizens who did not recognize the god. It also serves as a festival of the dead, when departed souls are believed to receive worship.

Key events at Indrachowk include:

• The display of the Akash Bhairab mask
• The erection of the ceremonial Indra pole (Yashingah) in the area
• The passage of the Kumari's chariot procession through the square

The Market

Indrachowk is a traditional market for:

Glass and stone beads: The lanes around Indrachowk are the primary wholesale and retail centre in Nepal for traditional glass beads, including pote (small glass beads strung in necklaces that married Newari women wear as a marital marker, equivalent to mangalsutra). Dozens of shops stock beads in every colour and size.

Gold and silver jewellery: Traditional Newari and hill-style jewellery is sold by specialist goldsmiths in the square and surrounding lanes.

Fabric and cloth: Sari fabric, brocade, and traditional cloth is sold in the Indrachowk area.

The Street to Asan and South to Durbar Square

The lane running south from Indrachowk to Kathmandu Durbar Square passes through Makhan Tole — one of the most atmospheric streets in the old city — and connects to the Taleju temple area. The lane north from Indrachowk leads directly to Asan Tole. This stretch of the ancient trade route is one of the best walking routes in Kathmandu.

Practical Information

Getting there: 10–15 minute walk from Kathmandu Durbar Square or from Asan Tole. Rickshaw or taxi from Thamel.

Entry fee: None.

Best time: Morning for market activity; during Indra Jatra for festival atmosphere.

Time required: 30–45 minutes at Indrachowk; combine with Asan and Makhan Tole for a full walk.