Bhaktapur's Pottery Square: A Guide to Nepal's Living Craft Tradition

Overview

Pottery Square (Kumale Tol) in Bhaktapur is one of the most visually arresting sights in the Kathmandu Valley. Located a short walk southwest of Taumadhi Square, the open space is filled with hundreds — sometimes thousands — of terracotta pots drying in the sun. Local Kumale (potter-caste) artisans work on traditional kick-wheels set at ground level, shaping clay dug from the banks of nearby rivers. The tradition is ancient and continuous; no significant change in technique has occurred for generations.

The Kumale Community

The Kumale are a Newari sub-caste traditionally associated with pottery production. In Bhaktapur, they form a concentrated community in and around Pottery Square. The craft is hereditary — skills and trade secrets pass from parent to child. Both men and women participate: men typically work the wheel while women shape smaller items by hand, apply slip decoration, and manage the drying and sales.

The Production Process

Clay Preparation

Clay is sourced from riverbanks and paddy fields near Bhaktapur. It is mixed with water and kneaded thoroughly to remove air pockets. This preparation is done in large outdoor pits.

Wheel Throwing

The kick-wheel used in Bhaktapur is a heavy stone or clay flywheel set flush with the ground. The potter sits behind it, kicks the wheel with one foot to set it spinning, and then uses both hands to throw the vessel. A skilled Kumale can produce a standard water pot (gagri) in under a minute.

Drying

Finished pots are set out in the square to dry for one to several days depending on size and weather. The sight of hundreds of ochre pots drying in the Himalayan light — with the tiered temples of Taumadhi in the background — is one of Nepal's iconic images.

Firing

Pots are fired in open clamp kilns using wood and rice-husk fuel. Firing temperatures are lower than kiln-fired ceramics, which is why Bhaktapur terracotta remains relatively porous — ideal for traditional water-storage vessels, which keep water cool through evaporation.

What Is Made

• Gagri: The traditional water-carrying pot with a distinctive rounded base
• Diyo: Small oil lamps used daily in home shrines and during Tihar festival
• Dhungo: Incense holders
• Roof tiles: Ornamental tiles for traditional Newari buildings
• Flower pots and decorative items: Increasingly produced for the souvenir market

Visiting the Square

There is no entry fee specifically for Pottery Square (it is within the general Bhaktapur entry ticket area). Early morning is the best time to watch active potters at work. Most potters are accustomed to visitors and will allow photographs; a small tip or purchase is appreciated. Several workshops adjacent to the square sell finished pieces directly, making it one of the best places in Nepal to buy authentic, affordable traditional pottery.

Conservation Notes

The pottery tradition faces economic pressure from cheap plastic and metal goods. Younger generations increasingly pursue alternative employment in Kathmandu. NGOs and the local government have introduced craft cooperatives and tourist-facing workshops to supplement income and sustain the tradition.