Asan Tole: A Complete Guide to Kathmandu's Historic Market Square

Overview

Asan Tole (also spelled Asan Chowk) is a major crossroads square in the heart of Kathmandu's old city, approximately 500 metres north of Kathmandu Durbar Square. For centuries it has been one of the busiest commercial intersections in the city and a focal point of the ancient trade networks that crossed the Kathmandu Valley. Six streets meet at Asan, making it naturally the city's central hub. It remains today a functioning traditional market selling spices, grains, household goods, and produce — largely unchanged in character from its medieval function, though the goods have evolved.

Historical Role

Asan's commercial importance derives from its position at the intersection of ancient trade routes. The route from India came north through the city and passed through Asan on its way to Indrachowk and ultimately to Boudhanath and the roads to Tibet. Merchants from the Tarai, from India, and from Tibet all passed through or traded at Asan. Wholesalers dealing in spices, rice, lentils, cloth, and metalwork established themselves around the square, and the concentration of commerce gave Asan its character.

The Newari merchant caste — the Tuladhar, Shrestha, and related families — dominated trade through Asan for centuries. Their multi-storey merchant houses with ground-floor trading rooms and upper residential floors still line the square and the lanes leading to it.

The Temples of Asan

Despite its commercial character, Asan has a dense religious geography. Several important temples are embedded within the market:

Annapurna Temple: The most prominent temple at Asan is dedicated to Annapurna, the goddess of grain and abundance — a fitting patron for a market square. The gilded facade is hung with offerings and garlands. Annapurna is worshipped every morning by traders and shoppers seeking prosperity.

Ganesh Shrine: A significant Ganesh shrine at the junction is worshipped as the protector of the market. Ganesh, the remover of obstacles, is the ideal deity for traders.

Mahalakshmi Temple: The goddess of wealth has a presence at Asan reflecting the commercial aspirations of the market community.

Naradevi Temple: A few minutes walk from Asan proper, the Naradevi temple is an important Durga shrine that forms part of the religious network of the old city.

The Market Today

Asan remains a functioning wholesale and retail market. Early morning (before 9 a.m.) is the most active time, when wholesale traders arrive and the narrow lanes leading to the square are loaded with goods. The square sells:

• Dried spices in sacks and loose piles
• Rice, lentils, and grain
• Fresh vegetables and fruit (in surrounding lanes)
• Household goods: brass pots, plastic containers, tools
• Incense, flowers, and ritual items
• Clothing and fabric

The market is also surrounded by specialist shops: herbal medicine dealers, metalwork sellers, and general goods merchants.

Visiting Asan

Getting there: Asan is a 10–15 minute walk north from Kathmandu Durbar Square through the old city lanes. Taxi and rickshaw from Thamel take 5–10 minutes.

Entry fee: None — Asan is a public street intersection.

Best time: Early morning (7–9 a.m.) for full market activity; mid-morning for manageable crowds.

Time required: 30–60 minutes to explore the square and immediate lanes; combine with a walk to Indrachowk and Thamel.